(Ganni Spring 2024, WWD)
After over a decade as the leading force on the Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar, GANNI’s absence last season was strongly felt. Although this shift allowed new talent to shine—something we will touch on later —there was no denying that GANNI's absence became a hot topic, leaving many to speculate about the brand's future. Co-founder Nicolaj Reffstrup offered a hint when questioned about GANNI’s future on the fashion week schedule, stating, “I think the best answer is that we are definitely not going to leave shows. We are coming back to that format.” While this did little to quell online speculation, it only fuelled the rumours of GANNI girl going global.
Paris Fashion Week, often regarded as one of the 'Big Four' alongside New York, London, and Milan, is an unparalleled global stage for fashion. It draws buyers, celebrities, and industry insiders to the French capital to celebrate the intersection of fashion and art. However, before diving into the spectacle of Paris Fashion Week, it's important to highlight Copenhagen Fashion Week—the largest fashion event in Northern Europe, held biannually in January/February and August. With sustainability at its core, Copenhagen Fashion Week arguably strives for a more responsible future than most other fashion events. And if any brand embodies the spirit of this week, it's GANNI. Having shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week for a decade, there's no doubt that GANNI has become its flagship brand. But now, with the move to Paris, what does this mean for Copenhagen’s fashion scene?
Interestingly, after a decade of closing Copenhagen Fashion Week with their blockbuster runway shows, the start of 2024 hinted at a shift for GANNI. When founders Nicolaj and Ditte Reffstrup announced that the brand would step back from showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, it raised some eyebrows. Given GANNI’s long-standing tradition of closing the show, this left some big shoes to fill. Instead of showing for the A/W 2024 season, GANNI revealed they would financially support a group of emerging Nordic designers, aiming to shine a spotlight on smaller designers who have been struggling to gain visibility.
“We’ve been debating this for a while. We needed to reset at some point, and in the last couple of seasons, young designers have been struggling. We want to take the opportunity to welcome newcomers to share our platform.” says co-founder and creative director Ditte Reffstrup when interviewed on the run-up to CPHFW. This all happened in January of 2024, and while news had not broken of Ganni’s move to Paris at the time, we can look back and recognise that the reign of Ganni at the head of the CPHFW table has left a legacy and expectation, and while Ganni move on, Copenhagen is left in safe hands of new and emerging designers.Let’s talk about GANNI’s move to Paris and why it matters! First, it’s worth noting that GANNI isn’t the only Scandinavian brand to expand into Paris Fashion Week—brands like Cecilie Bahnsen and Heliot Emil have made the move and found great success. But what does this shift mean for GANNI? Known for its “affordable luxury” and a style that embraces vibrant colours and eye-catching prints, GANNI has often stood apart from the minimalist, traditional Scandinavian aesthetic. Its largely Gen Z consumer base finds more than just clothes; they find a community. Being a "GANNI Girl" means embodying that cool-girl vibe with a brand that resonates deeply with its audience. Celebrity endorsements from the likes of Emma Chamberlain—arguably the ultimate "It-Girl" for GANNI (sorry, Bella Hadid)—further solidify the brand's cultural relevance.
But what does the move to Paris signal for GANNI’s future? Personally, I’ve always felt that part of GANNI’s appeal was its "off-the-beaten-path" approach to fashion week showcases. (No shade to Copenhagen Fashion Week, if there is a ‘Big Four’, Copenhagen is the 5th) Let’s be honest: GANNI could have shown in Paris years ago and been welcomed with open arms. So why now? It all comes down to growth. To understand the timing, we need to look at the brand’s new CEO, Laura du Rusquec. Previously the CEO of Balenciaga, du Rusquec joined GANNI in April 2024 and quickly set to work on moving the brand onto the global stage of Paris Fashion Week.
“Paris offers an unparalleled global platform, and we are excited to present our SS25 collection, along with our ongoing vision and commitment to responsibility in the fashion industry,” Du Rusquec said in an interview with Vogue Scandinavia. A strong sentiment that gives us a glimpse into the future of Ganni.
I’m excited to see GANNI elevate to the level of luxury fashion we're used to seeing in Paris. Time will tell how this beloved Scandinavian brand will fit into such a prestigious global stage. With a slot right after Dior and just before Saint Laurent on the second day of Paris Fashion Week, GANNI is diving into the deep end. All eyes will be on their debut, and if their track record is any indication, they’re about to make waves in the fashion world like never before.
Edited By Charlotte Lewis
(Image Vogue)
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