Edited by Isobel Knight; written by Levi Kaye
There's nothing more exciting in fashion than a debut, and whilst it could be said that a debut during Paris Haute Couture Week is the pinnacle of a career, I think debuting a haute couture collection as Jean Paul Gaultier's guest designer might just top that. This remarkable feat was accomplished by the Irish-born designer, Simone Rocha.
January 24th marked day 3 of Paris Haute Couture Week, and Jean-Paul Gaultier's sixth appearance accompanied by a guest designer. The hype surrounding Rocha's debut was built throughout the week, and in the end, Rocha presented a collection that encompassed elements of sensuality, surrealism, and a touch of her Irish heritage, as anticipated.
The only ask from Jean Paul Gaultier is that the collection blends the guest designer’s style with his own. Rocha’s design style focuses on femininity. Working heavily with volume and embellishments, including spearheading the iconic bow trend. Whilst these stylistic features are consistent, we also know from her autumn/winter 2023 collection that she can take her thematic concepts and run all the way to the finish line with them.
But what is the theme here? Well, Jean Paul Gaultier, of course! A brand that dives into the deep end of sex and bondage culture, while blurring the lines between provocative and playful.
At London Fashion Week, where Rocha’s work is typically displayed, she often showcases collections strongly influenced by Irish culture. You can imagine Rocha’s delight when, after diving deep into the JPG archives shortly after her invitation to guest design, she found that Gaultier used traditional Irish crochet in previous work. He also utilised pink hues and satin fabrics, which are linked both to Irish culture and to Rocha’s work, as these are mediums she often works with. With a collection of 36 looks, influences seemed to be drawn from every corner of the combined brands. The undeniable attraction between these two brands was beautifully showcased on the runway.
We saw Gaultier references in every look, but an unquestionable style influence from Rocha. She put a spin on Gaultier’s 1984 cone bras, conveying them as roses and sharp horns in a beautiful dark green colour, and paired 1998 bondage-inspired looks with voluminous tulle skirts, lace-up corsets, and ribbon ties in a blush pink. I could go on, but the reality is that Simone Rocha created absolute magic here.
The crowd in attendance, and maybe more importantly, Gaultier's reception to the collection, was so electric and warm. Rocha found the perfect balance between erotic, sensual and feminine in a way that no other designer could achieve. The utilisation of her stylistic features and silhouettes made this collection feel incredibly authentic to her while complimenting the inspiration and heritage of Jean Paul Gaultier.
Even the more unconventional concepts translated well on the runway. A highlight for me was the baby blue brassiere top, with beautiful hand-draped balloon sleeves worn over high shorts that are, for lack of a better word, stuffed, to give an emphasised hip. It gave a really camp, unique silhouette, with (again) a really impressive display of volume.
While Rocha paid tribute to the archives of Jean Paul Gaultier, her design style is more than just bows and ribbons. Her unique perspective on femininity and womanhood is what separates her from others in her field. The collection was not shy in exploring Rocha’s love for the unique, with bell-bottom dresses giving an oversized feel to her garments –something not typically associated with femininity. The silhouette was beautiful and complimented the style and overall aesthetic incredibly well.
Finally, in true haute fashion, the collaborative show ended with a bridal dress. Its unique silhouette and bridal veil were truly breath taking. Adorned with layers of uncut raw lace and tulle gracefully mounted on a looped skirt, the spectacle of this ensemble provided a fitting climax to an extraordinary show. This collaboration seamlessly blended two distinct brand aesthetics, creating pure magic, and with her next own-name runway presentation quickly approaching, it’s all eyes on the future of Simone Rocha.