London Fashion Week is rapidly emerging as the hub for fashion sustainability and innovation, thanks in large part to designers like Sinéad O'Dwyer. A graduate of the Royal College of Art, O'Dwyer is no newcomer to the event, consistently using the platform to challenge industry norms. As part of the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN Programme, O'Dwyer made her debut at London Fashion Week in 2023 and has since secured a place on the schedule.
O'Dwyer's challenge to the fashion industry is embedded in the very DNA of her designs. I first encountered her work during the Spring/Summer 2025 showcase at Copenhagen Fashion Week, where her experimental approach to design and textile techniques immediately stood out. Her creations celebrated femme-identifying bodies of all shapes, sizes, and abilities—an inclusivity often missing in the industry.
But O'Dwyer's commitment to inclusivity goes beyond sizing; it represents a broader shift toward making fashion week—and fashion itself—more accessible. Featuring blind activist Lucy Edwards as a model was more than just a token gesture—it was part of a show that included audio descriptions for blind and low-vision guests. O'Dwyer’s approach isn’t just about representation; it’s about reimagining how fashion is presented and who it serves. By introducing adaptive design and viewing elements, her work aims to disrupt and challenge the industry's norms.
Hosted at the NEWGEN Catwalk space for London Fashion Week, Sinéad O'Dwyer presented Character Studies, a retrospective Autumn/Winter 2025 collection inspired by the people and characters in her world. From all the London Fashion Week content I’ve absorbed this season (and trust me, it’s been a lot), one key theme stands out: Evolution. Designers are refining and evolving their styles, aesthetics, and approaches to sustainability, innovation, and accessibility—and O'Dwyer is no exception.
Staying true to her signature approach to form and fit, O'Dwyer’s collection features playful silhouettes, a hallmark of her work. However, this time, she introduces more unexpected fabric choices, like wax cotton, denim, and leather, contrasting with silks and satin. The result is a more diverse and captivating exploration of silhouette, marking an exciting evolution in her design journey.
Back-to-basics
As the first looks of the 24-piece collection made their way down the runway, we were greeted with some familiar style elements—shirting, pleated skirts, classic coats—but, in keeping with the overarching theme of evolution, these pieces were elevated with corset boning, microskirts, and leather harness details (which truly deserve their own moment, as we'll touch on later). These familiar touches serve as a foundation, allowing O'Dwyer's 2025 collection to truly come into its own.
Image - AW25 Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
The shift in fabric choices was something that really stood out to me, and one thing I’ve come to appreciate about O'Dwyer is that everything she does is intentional. The contrasts in fabric don’t exist for aesthetic purposes alone—though, of course, the collection is visually stunning. It's the movement that truly captures attention. As the garments shift and flow, they almost transform with each step down the runway. And let’s be honest, this collection brought sexiness and body positivity to the NEWGEN stage. The leather details—cloaks, belts, and harnesses—combine rich textures with metal hardware, further elevating the collection. I’m particularly drawn to the honeycombed drawstring details, which frame the body and shape the silhouette in such a beautiful, complementary way.
(Image - Hypebae)
The shift in fabric choices was something that really stood out to me, and one thing I’ve come to appreciate about O'Dwyer is that everything she does is intentional. The contrasts in fabric don’t exist for aesthetic purposes alone—though, of course, the collection is visually stunning. It's the movement that truly captures attention. As the garments shift and flow, they almost transform with each step down the runway. And let’s be honest, this collection brought sexiness and body positivity to the NEWGEN stage. The leather details—cloaks, belts, and harnesses—combine rich textures with metal hardware, further elevating the collection. I’m particularly drawn to the honeycombed drawstring details, which frame the body and shape the silhouette in such a beautiful, complementary way.
(Image - Morgane Maurice - DAZED)
At the time of writing this review, Sinéad O'Dwyer has been announced as a semi-finalist for the prestigious LVMH Young Designer Award, a recognition that highlights her commitment to intentionally designed luxury garments for women and gender non-conforming femmes of all shapes and sizes. This honor places O'Dwyer firmly at the forefront of reshaping the fashion landscape around body diversity. Her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection stands as a testament to her ability to drive meaningful change within the industry. O'Dwyer isn't just designing clothes; she’s redefining what fashion can be.
I encourage you to revisit O’Dwyers earlier works, featured under the NEWGEN stage with the British Fashion Council, available here
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