The first Haute Couture fashion week of 2024 is fast approaching. From January 22nd through to January 25th, Paris will set the stage with four days of powerhouse presentations, heralding the start of the Spring/Summer 2024 season. But who should we be paying attention to? With 30 events scheduled, including shows and presentations, let's break down the impending shows and some expected highlights from each day!
(image: (left to right) Maison Margiela, AW 21/22, Simone Rocha AW 22/23, Julien Fournié AW 18/19)
Day one
January 22nd marks the grand opening of Haute Couture Week, launching with the iconic Schiaparelli, and we're expecting big things. Taking the early shift, for the second consecutive year, Schiaparelli kicks off at 9 am GMT. Last year, artistic director Daniel Roseberry took us on a journey through Dante's Divine Comedy, a poem detailing a journey through hell, purgatory, and paradise. Roseberry's literal interpretation of Dante's three sinful animals translated into striking animal heads featured throughout the show—an attention-grabbing detail that dominated social media discussion post-presentation. Interestingly enough, the animal head references took over just 3 of the 32 looks featured by Schiaparelli, and feedback from the show across social media seemed to agree that the spectacle of the animal references somewhat overshadowed an otherwise exquisite collection. Featuring imitation menswear fabric, with extreme silhouettes that Roseberry described as “Putting women in Menswear, but making the silhouette hyper-feminine”, and incredibly detailed and strong structural pieces that, in true haute couture fashion, pushed the boundaries between art and fashion. Given the reception of the 2023 show and the subsequent backlash and social commentary, there's no doubt that this is a show to watch—an exciting way to kick off haute couture week.
The schedule for the day continues to dazzle with Christian Dior at 1:30 pm and the highly anticipated debut of Moroccan designer Sara Chraïbi of Maison Sar Chraïbi at 5 pm—a show promising to unveil "The Power of her Roots. This is a debut you do not want to miss. Although it marks Chraïbi's first Paris Haute Couture presentation, she is no stranger to couture fashion. Having been featured in publications such as Harper's Bazaar China, Numero, and L’OFFICIEL HOMMES India as recently as December, Chraïbi is long overdue for a Paris Haute Couture showcase. If you need any more evidence of that, just check out her cover for Numero Netherlands, featuring the most incredible couture gold-embroidered corset and pleated skirt combo; it speaks for itself
(image: Maison Sara Chraïbi, Couture Autumn/Winter 2023, Tagwalk)
Day Two
As we step into day two, renowned brands begin to take the spotlight: Chanel kicks off the show at 9am, and Armani wraps up the day at 6pm. A brand that may not be on your radar going into Haute Couture Week (but should be) is Julien Fournié. As one of 16 Haute Couture Houses in the world, Fournié's design ethos is all about searching for ways that women can express their emotions through fashion. Their 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, titled 'First Crimes,' speaks volumes to Fournié's understanding of emotions and features prevalent characters who represent that. A collection inspired by the likes of Agatha Christie, Alfred Hitchcock, and Paul Verhoeven, creative writers, and filmmakers whose work leans into the dark and the edgy, there is an elegance Fourie captures when translating that to haute couture, asking the question “how would a “profiler” analyse the motives of this “serial killer” of a couturier who hits with his aesthetics”. Fourie is excellent at telling a story with his designs. The title 'First Crimes' gives an idea of history and almost vintage influences, exploring the 'firsts' of this era. With his Paris Haute Couture Week collection titled 'First Vamps,' we can expect historical influence mixed in with the darkness that we’ve come to associate with Julien Fournié. Kicking off at 2:30 pm on Day two, this show is another can't-miss
(image: Julien Fournié, ‘First Crime’ Haute Couture, 2018/19)
Day Three
Day three features my one-to-watch of Haute Couture week. When Jean Paul Gaultier retired in January 2020, he left behind a legacy of archival pieces. While others may not have seen it, Gaultier viewed this as an opportunity to create a program meant to uplift the voices of designers, inherently linked to the brand. The guest designer program was launched for Haute Couture presentations both for the Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons. To date, we have had five guest designer presentations, each bringing their own unique style aesthetic to the challenge. Featuring designers such as Rabanne's’ (AKA. Paco Rabanne) Julien Dossena, and the creative director of Balmain, Olivier Rousteing. But as we approach Spring/Summer 2024, the announcement of the 6th guest designer has been made—introducing Simone Rocha. With another highly anticipated debut into Paris Haute Couture Week, Simone Rocha was announced as Jean-Paul Gautier's next Haute Couture Designer, in a very low-key Instagram post. There is not a lot known about the anticipated collection, set to debut on day 3 of Haute Couture week at 1:30 pm, but with what we know about both Jean Paul Gautier and Simone Rocha, the fashion world is eager to see how these design styles will blend together. Jean Paul Gautier, and its history in Haute Couture dating back to 1996, has always had the design ethos of blending genres, styles, and cultures. "The cultural influences that are prevalent in Simone Rocha's work are sure to play a part in this collaboration, and it's something Rocha does so masterfully. Looking back to her Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, we got a real sense of her Irish roots, and the proudness in which she carries her heritage. Exploring the relationship between men and women in fashion through the lens of the Irish harvest festival, Lughnasadh, which represents a significant event in Irish folklore, the start of the harvest season, and an acceptance of spirits and Deities in traditional folklore. Rocha has a real connection to these reference points which shines through to her collections, and her authentic designs lean towards femininity in both menswear and womenswear. Considering this, and considering Jean Paul Gaultier's rich history of combining genres and cultures with an almost punk-like aesthetic, this could be the fashion collaboration of the year.
(image: Simone Rocha, Autumn/Winter 2023/24, Vogue)
Day 4
Finally, day 4. The highlight has to be Maison Margiela closing the show. 2024 signifies the return of Maison Margiela to haute couture after a 2-season Hiatus. Under the guidance of John Galliano, the current creative director, the spotlight shines on 'The Artisanal Line,' Galliano's innovative response to the intricately regulated realm of haute couture. These garments, crafted by hand using vintage pieces and low-cost materials, represent a legacy of upcycling and deconstruction left behind by Martin Margiela. Galliano's previous couture show, titled 'Cinema Inferno,' was described by him as 'spectral cowboy prom queen couture.' While I could probably leave it at that, it's noteworthy that this highly anticipated return to haute couture serves as an extraordinary finale, concluding both day 4 and Paris Haute Couture Week 2024 on an exquisitely artistic note
(image: Maison Margiela AW22 Couture - Maison Margiela)
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