‘With the new Helmut Lang, I really just want to dress New York, ‘And not just Manhattan – Queens, Brooklyn. I want to showcase the versatile, energetic, chaotic way that people live in New York City. I want to introduce the brand to a new generation of people.’ – Peter Do for Helmut Lang 2023
Despite epitomising 90s New York minimalism, Peter Do's debut NYFW show on Friday resisted the temptation to recycle previous shapes and cuts. Instead, the brand emerged with a renewed energy, unveiling a fresh voice through its SS24 collection. The Vietnamese-American creative director adeptly encapsulated the brand's essence of deconstruction and minimalism while presenting a novel perspective. Throughout the show, Do's vision emphasized freedom and accessibility, traits that undeniably permeated every facet of the presentation.
Courtesy of Vogue
Do paid homage to Lang's pioneering move of adorning New York cabs with a yellow taxi print, reflected in many of his garments. Similarly, the collection echoed the spirit of the meatpacking district and clandestine bondage clubs, evident in its elongated straps and tailored silhouettes. The entire show served as a tribute to New York—embracing its virtues, complexities, and imperfections.
In addition to drawing inspiration from archival Helmut Lang pieces, Do infused his own heritage into the collection. Collaborating with Vietnamese poet Ocean Vuong, Do integrated Vuong's artistry into the presentation. Vuong's poignant words graced concrete surfaces, while his evocative photography adorned individual scarves draped over each audience chair. Vuong's perspective, rooted in the exploration of transformation through poetry, seamlessly complemented the brand's revival. His collaboration proved instrumental in shaping this innovative collection.
Vogue
In 2006, Fast Retailing acquired Helmut Lang from Prada, leading to the brand's departure from the limelight. Surprisingly, the brand's ownership by a fast fashion conglomerate could now bring about positive changes. Fast Retailing's involvement holds promise in democratizing high fashion, making it more accessible to everyday individuals. In 2024, Do's fresh vision aligns well with the current emphasis on affordability and essential fashion pieces in the industry. Through Do and Vuong's collaboration, they aptly comment on the fashion industry's issues of inaccessibility, elitism, and unrealistic beauty standards, echoing a powerful message: 'THEY LIED TO YOU, NO ONE HERE WAS EVER UGLY.'
Watch the show here:
Courtesy of Vogue
References
https://www.forbes.com/2006/03/17/prada-bertelli-italy-cx_cn_0317autofacescan09.html?sh=1a7468c74e7a