Fashion Month Recap - Paris
It was a fashion month full of debuts, departures, minimalism, maximalism and avant-garde design.
Over the course of the month’s countless shows and headlines it’s hard to pull out the main shows and talking points. This series of articles will pick out some of the most noteworthy shows and fashion news from fashion month SS24.
We saw multiple high profile debuts from Peter Do, designing for Helmut Lang; Peter Hawkings, for designing for Tom Ford and Sabato de Sarno for Gucci. We also saw departures from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen after 23 years with the label, and Gabriella Hearst showed her last collection for Chloé.
If you want to read about the other weeks you can find them here.
PARIS
Coperni
(Images from vogue.com)
Starting out with a surprise appearance from Naomi Campbell who opened the SS24 show, Coperni's venture into artificial intelligence tech is debuting strong.
The show was full (or not so full) of barely there garments. Many of the garments barely covered the wearer, for example a denim jacket shown above which only consisted of the front pockets and button paneling.
Scattered throughout the show were a large amount of wearable pieces, as with many Coperni shows it's the styling that brings the more ‘ordinary’ pieces to life making them blend seamlessly with the more outlandish designs. The sheer garments were definitely the ones that stuck in the mind following the show. The way they incorporated sheer/transparent materials into a wide array of garments, trucker jackets, shirts and sweaters to name a few.
If we are talking about the Coperni runway we have to talk about the tech incorporation. For SS24 it was an “AI pin” that was created in partnership with Humane. The device will be officially unveiled on November 9th. After reading the press release about the feature in Coperni’s show it's hard to derive what exactly the device will do, but it will serve as some form of wearable AI that will “weave seamlessly into users’ day-to-day lives.” According to the press release from Humane.
The only thing missing from this Coperni show was a large scale showpiece, as previously worked in the brands favor, remember a dress getting sprayed onto Bella Hadid?
Alexander McQueen
(Image from countryandtownhouse.com)
Sarah Burton ending her 26 year tenure with Alexander McQueen is an emotional departure. The power of which was palpable at the show itself. Naomi Campbell closes the show wiping a tear away on the runway and the entire thing concluding with a standing ovation from the star studded audience.
Burton explained her inspiration in the show notes as “female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused ever to compromise her vision”. She brought her vision to reality through bold prints and embellishments across all garments from knitwear, leather dresses and corset construction. The colour combination for the show was made up of black, white and blood red, with gold threaded through some of the garments.
Adding to the emotional weight of the show the theme was dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen who she added always strived to empower women.
Loewe
(Image from reeditionmagazine.com)
“Reducing fashion to silhouette, focusing on the outline” a theme that is perpetuated with the first 2 looks right off the bat. Longline knitted cardigans that engulfed the models, almost completely. Creating a streamlined silhouette, from shoulder to toe. Carried throughout the show models had their hands tucked into pockets where possible eliminating movement that wasn’t from the garments, bringing attention to the silhouette of each look.
There were various silhouettes displayed throughout the show all displayed through the garments. One of the most distinguishable from the collection were the extreme high rise trousers and jeans. The use of the garments created another streamlined and elongated silhouette by having the top layer either tucked in, cropped or held up by the models arms as they were always tucked into the jeans pockets.
Anderson also incorporated sculptural artwork into the show space. He decided to bring in artwork from Lynda Benglis. The large scale sculptures that are created by “twisting extruded lengths of soft clay” bring further attention to Anderson’s vision to display silhouettes.
This show was another triumph for JW Anderson and his ability to design for both, Loewe and his namesake brand while keeping each brands identity intact but bringing some extra avant grade to Loewe.
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