Fashion Month Recap - London
It was a fashion month full of debuts, departures, minimalism, maximalism and avant-garde design.
Over the course of the month’s countless shows and headlines, it’s hard to pull out the main shows and talking points. This series of articles will pick out some of the most noteworthy shows and fashion news from fashion month SS24.
We saw multiple high profile debuts from Peter Do, designing for Helmut Lang; Peter Hawkings, for designing for Tom Ford and Sabato de Sarno for Gucci. We also saw departures from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen after 23 years with the label, and Gabriella Hearst showed her last collection for Chloé.
If you want to read about the other weeks you can find them here.
LONDON
JW Anderson
(Image from I-D.Vice.com)
At his SS24 show in London, JW Anderson grabbed his audience’s attention with the first look sent down the runway. A hoodie and shorts. A hoodie and shorts that nobody could decide their matereill; many guessed leather or an entirely new fabric. Until Anderson revealed that they were made from plasticine. In classic Anderson fashion, he brought childlike creativity into the world of high fashion and made it something to be desired.
He carried this experimentation throughout the show with woven leather pieces, Puffed-up vinyl pieces and more.
For this show Anderson took what he was seeing young people wearing on the streets and knocked the mundane out of them. The bomber jackets featured in the show with feathers bursting out of them creating the illusion that the garments lining was escaping. Bringing texture and excitement to a day to day piece we would otherwise just throw on.
He put his own spin on a garment that has been shown across multiple runways this season; the extravagant skirt. He did this by weaving together strips of sparkling leather. Putting them together in a way that could’ve been assumed to be completely random brings childlike playfulness to a piece that would have taken hours of work to construct and hang properly on the model.
The show's success is also down to Anderson’s ability to strike the perfect balance between avant-garde design and wearability, this can be seen in the pastel trench coats, knitted dresses and the aforementioned skirts, which were balanced by pastel loose fitting hooded jumpers.
Burberry
(Image from I-D.Vice.com)
Daniel Lee transported his guests out of central London and into the Northern English countryside for his show. He pitched a tent in Highbury fields park, filled it with green park benches, wooly blankets draped over them, he brought in food trucks offering Eccles cake, Guinness bread and cups of tea.
With this collection Lee wanted to offer an elevated perspective on outdoor living. He restructured the classic trench to be loosely belted at the hip, bringing in elements of English country summers through the strawberry and cherry prints that were displayed in the collection.
After making a success of reintroducing the brand’s knight on a horse emblem he has decided to introduce a new print that will no doubt become synonymous with the Burberry brand. He introduced a silver chains and clamps print that can be seen across the lining and exterior of the trench coats shown plus scarves and accessories. This was tied in with the buckle on the new bags, footwear and sunglasses. Could this suggest a new defining feature for the Burberry brand?
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