It was a fashion month full of debuts, departures, minimalism, maximalism and avant-garde design.
Over the course of the month’s countless shows and headlines it’s hard to pull out the main shows and talking points. This series of articles will pick out some of the most noteworthy shows and fashion news from fashion month SS24.
We saw multiple high profile debuts from Peter Do, designing for Helmut Lang; Peter Hawkings, for designing for Tom Ford and Sabato de Sarno for Gucci. We also saw departures from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen after 23 years with the label, and Gabriella Hearst showed her last collection for Chloé.
If you want to read about the other weeks you can find them here.
NEW YORK
Sandy Liang
(Image from Hypebeast.com)
Following an extremely successful collaboration with Baggu in August; which sold out so fast the company released an apology on instagram. Sandy Laing showed her SS24 collection at the garden of the Cooper Hewitt Museum, and it was bows galore in model’s hair and on garments, Laing also showed bags that present as large bows. The majority of the runway was made up of cream, navy and cool toned pink. The collection also featured smatterings of warmer yellows and oranges.
This collection was an amazing representation of how Liang can bring seemingly opposing inspirations and make them come together seamlessly. With this collection, Liang was inspired by the “corporate working royal vision of a princess” according to Vogue Runway.
This can be seen in the strait-laced jackets and mini skirts, marrying the straight-laced society inspiration with Y2K style. The Y2K inspiration can be seen throughout the collection with graphic tees and miniskirts one of which was bedazzled.
The collection makes clear the reason why this label's cult following is growing rapidly. During a time when the quiet luxury of more toned-down garments is rising in popularity. Liang isn’t afraid to have fun and give the quiet luxury aesthetic her whimsical touch.
Helmut Lang
(Image from hypebeast.com)
Another SS24 debut. Peter Do for Helmut Lang.
Do is here to pay homage to Helmut Lang and New York City where the brand was born and grew. He is also here to breathe new life into the brand and reinstate it to the heights it reached before 2006 when the brand was acquired from Prada by Fast Retailing. Since then the brand has fallen from its place but not for much longer if Do has his way.
The collection nodded to Lang and his decision to advertise on top of yellow taxis in NYC, at a time when this kind of advertising was looked down upon by the high fashion world. He made this apparent through
the yellow taxi cab print and panelling that was seen across multiple garments.
Do showed he has a clear hold upon Lang’s famous androgynous style, by having the same looks shown on both male and female models.
The future success of Helmut Lang could be increased by the below-high fashion prices, Do said that they want to include a wider group of people in the conversation and to create clothing that “have longevity without being super expensive”
Christian Siriano
(Image from 4chionlifestyle.com)
Siriano’s SS24 show was an exercise in pure opulence. The show started with all-black looks, concentrating on corsetry, tailoring and craftsmanship to give the looks definition and depth.
By look number 18 you could see the show shedding the tailored all-black look and bringing in a variation of shapes created with tulle fabric, paying homage to Siriano’s main inspiration; ballet. This progression brought drama and excitement to the show.
With this show Siriano balanced the fight between sharply cut and softly designed silhouettes, by having a variation of looks, some were loose fitting and tulle-covered or featured tule embellishments that brought a new level of shape and movement to the looks. While other looks featured sharply cut corsetry and suiting; some looks featured a mixture of both.
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