Clothing is described by behavior theorists as an “artefact of extended self” (Haller, 2021). The morning ritual of dressing, which we all take part in, some with more attention to detail than others, has a bigger impact on our self-expression and environment than we think. You may think this only applies to people with a particular interest in fashion and it´s industry full of slim models and wealthy designers, but that is far from the truth. The way people dress says a lot about them as a person, priorities, and stance in society. Globalisation has also resulted in an overlap in cultures where fashion trends and styles find new ground and meanings.
Photographed by Acielle for Vogue 2021.
In the current cultural climate, fast fashion has become part of our everyday vocabulary and is easily accessed by most people. However, do we really understand what fast fashion is and the aspects of life it not only impacts but dramatically shapes and affects? Without intentionally sounding like I am taking the privileged and patronizing fashion high ground, fast fashion is cheap, quick, and highly profitable. The clothes are made from unsustainable materials sewn together by exploited workers in order to meet consumer demand created by social media, influencers, and celebrity culture. These demands, wants, and needs are created and pushed out by household names such as Missguided, Pretty Little Thing, Shein, Boohoo and more. Yet, fast fashion is much more common and all-consuming than even that. Fashion and the consumption of clothes went from being occasional, special, practical, and slow; to a fast-paced whirlwind that never stops or knows any limits. Well-known and greatly loved brands such as H&M, Zara, Mango, Uniqlo, Nike and more are all part of the ever-growing fast fashion industry, with high end brands following suit and falling into the traps of consumer demand.
As more people are concerned with fast fashion, either because there is a growing desire to be a morally “woke” person, or due to a genuine concern for the climate crisis, the issue is nuanced and complex with several layers to unpack. One of these layers is the sense of individuality and how clothes have gone from expressing identity and style, to reflecting trends and showing worth. Way of dress and sense of style has long been argued to be a significant part of a person's individual expression of identity. Even through scholarly work there was a shift in focus regarding consumption of clothes from a purely financial and political activity to a social one in the late 20th century. Individuality gained more significance and it became crucial in the developed and modern western world. Sense of individuality and identity itself is still growing, yet our understanding of it in relation to style is being erased by the fast fashion industry.
The Wonderful Flight, Manchester vintage store via Instagram
Trend is now a word that is interchangeably used alongside style. Yet, style and trend are comparable to oppositions like Carrie Bradshaw; and financial stability. Style represents what a person wishes to express, how they feel comfortable styling their body by shaping, hugging, and exploring their figure. How makeup finishes off the perfect look, or how a naked face is the perfect accessory paired with a chic outfit. Trend on the other hand represents community rather than individuality, it represents the social group you wish to belong to and by default, through fast fashion, what financial class you seek to represent. Or at least a lifestyle you can get a taste of by looking in the mirror and seeing a person you admire from Instagram. The essence behind purchasing clothes is lost when the production of these items is made as a short-term investment with the intention of profit, and profit only.
Why does this matter? Style and trend are now terms that have lost a great meaning in comparison to each other, and frankly, fast fashion has erased the way in which style is expressed. Identity expression is still important, especially among young people seeking to understand themselves and navigate their way through life. Ways to combat fast fashion goes hand in hand with ways in which the fashion industry can keep encouraging individuality. Contemporary society sees fashion designers create fashion shows and unique designs only for influencers and celebrity culture to be the face of certain styles. As a result, a trend is born and fast fashion brands jump on the money-making machine by creating cheap knockoff variants, selling a dream, an identity, a fallacy to young people; all within a timeframe completely absurd and unsustainable.
One of the most important questions to ask oneself when in the process of purchasing something should always be “Am I buying this because it is a reflection of my style and I like it, or am I buying it because it's a reflection of a current trend and social media likes it?”. In doing so, one helps the planet by reducing unnecessary impulse buying at such a rapid speed. No wallet (unless you´re part of the 1%) or planet should in any way shape or form be able to keep up. As well as critically assessing what one truly wishes to portray when getting dressed can help a person regain their style and individuality . Thrift shopping and vintage hunting are, by the power of social media, ever growing especially amongst young people. We can thank social media for finally creating a positive, sustainable trend. Yet, thrifting also functions as a way to collect items for your personalized wardrobe by finding hidden gems that have not been mass-produced and pushed out in every size and colour imaginable. Clothes should be loved, adored, and purchased with the intent of creating outfits and representing personal identity and style. Fashion should be special, sustainable, and slow, not on trend, fast, and forgotten.
Edited by Charlotte Lewis (Editor-in-Chief)
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