Set against the historic backdrop of St. Paul's Church in Covent Garden, Hector Mclean’s show, Bastard Aristocrat, set out to explore the complex layers of class through the lens of a once-wealthy English family fallen from grace. The collection merged punk and regal influences, evoking the likes of Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano in its defiant juxtaposition.
Hector Mclean in studio
On a bitterly cold Sunday evening, howling winds swept through as park benches and red umbrellas lined the path leading to the church. The scene was set for a powerful theme that flowed seamlessly through both the collection and its guests. Red dominated the space—woven into the atmosphere and the designs, evoking both defiance and tradition. The Victorian backdrop, with its gas lamps and cobbled streets, enhanced the old-world charm Mclean aimed to evoke. As the clock struck seven and the church bells tolled, the audience settled in, eager for the show to start.
The first look—a white mini dress with pearl buttons shaped like the British flag—established the mood for a collection that gradually revealed a burst of colour, clock motifs, bicycles, heritage prints, and tattered fabrics. A few pieces boldly showcased the British flag, perhaps too on-the-nose, but still impeccably crafted. The models’ spiky, punk-inspired hair and bold, warlike makeup stood in stark contrast to the otherwise regal cuts and refined silhouettes. Adding another layer to the atmosphere, the soundtrack blended God Save the Queen, the Spice Girls, and The Kinks, weaving a soundtrack of rebellion and nostalgia into the show. The closing look, a dress adorned with remembrance poppies in signature red, gracefully flowed through St. Paul’s, offering a powerful tribute to Britain’s history, amplified by the iconic sounds echoing in the background.
(Photo by Ben Montgomery/Getty Images)
Mclean’s AW25 collection told the intriguing story of his ancestor, Lady Bellasis, who had an affair with King James II and bore a son acknowledged by the royal family—a fact Mclean discovered only recently. This murky exploration of class, however, remains somewhat elusive, as the collection largely operates within the upper echelons, referencing working-class motifs without fully addressing them.
While the collection garnered much praise, it’s impossible to overlook the role the venue played in shaping the overall experience. The grandeur of St. Paul’s Church, with its historical significance and opulent ambiance, undoubtedly added an air of sophistication, but at times, it felt as though the setting upstaged the garments themselves. Mclean’s vision was undeniably bold and ambitious, but there were moments when the spectacle of the location seemed to overshadow the collection's core narrative. The juxtaposition of punk rebellion and regal elegance was compelling, but the striking environment, with its gas lamps, cobbled streets, and Victorian charm, drew much of the attention, sometimes leaving the clothes in the background. This dynamic highlighted an interesting tension: while the venue undeniably elevated the overall event, it also presented a challenge for the collection to shine on its own terms. Ultimately, it felt as though the setting, while enhancing the atmosphere, sometimes diverted focus from the intricate story Mclean was trying to tell through his designs.
Hector Mclean AW25 (Getty)
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